Setting gears
1. Check everything – shifters, cables, cable housings
locate barrel adjuster where cable goes into back of derailleur
fiddle to see which way makes cable slacker (clockwise) & which tighter (anti)
be careful not to screw it right out (if you do, loosen the cable to put back in)
screw the barrel all the way in (ie cable slackest)
screw back 3 full turns (not more than half way)
2. Adjust cable tension
shift to smallest sprocket (bottom gear)
loosen cable bolt
push derailleur until it changes from bottom gear to next up
ease off slightly & tighter cable (ie in bottom gear but moves as soon as you shift)
(sight along derailleur to check its directly under the sprocket)
3. set stops
2 screws on body of derailleur (ignore the 3rd screw at the back, for now)
bottom screw = bottom gear, top screw = top gear
stay in bottom gear
screw in screw (anti clockwise) until gear starts to change
screw back ½ a turn
(sight along derailleur to check its directly under the sprocket)
shift to top gear (biggest sprocket – you may need to push derailleur gently)
screw in screw (anti clockwise) until chain starts to move up into spokes
(or until derailleur hanger brushes spoke)
screw back ½ a turn
(sight along derailleur to check its directly under the sprocket)
NB – make sure derailleur does not clip spoke even when frame flexes with your weight – tension on a steep hill can push derailleur into spoke, expensive
4. adjust derailleur.
shift back to bottom gear
adjust barrel adjuster so that chain runs smoothly in bottom gear – if it does not, consider new chain, bent hanger, loose cluster; or taking it to the shop
screw barrel in gently (tighten cable) until gear changes
screw back in ¼ turns until gear just changes back but does not jump
check on shifter to see gear changes up with one click and back with one click
practice, “feel” gear change
on the road/trail a skipping chain can often be cured by ¼ turn anti clockwise (tightening cable) on the barrel adjuster – ¼ turns only !